The road is covered in fog as we leave Omapere. Soon, however, the sun breaks
through and when we stop for breakfast at the attractive Haruru Falls, the sky
is a clear blue and the temperature has reached a pleasant level. From the Haruru
Falls it's a few kilometers to Paihia
in the Bay of Islands. The Bay of Islands, dotted with nearly 150 islands is
famous for its beautiful coastal scenery. But it's also of great historical
importance to New Zealand being the site of the first permanent English settlement.
The first ships that arrived in the Bay of Islands where whalers from the South
Pacific. Soon the area became the center of trade between whalers and sealers
and the local Maori. Following the arrival of European settlers (Pakeha)
the demand for land increased and tensions arose in the relations between Pakeha
and Maori culminating in various conflicts. In 1832 James Busby was appointed
as British Resident to establish law and order. He persuaded the Maori to cede
their sovereignty to the Queen of England in return for the Queen's protection.
On February 6, 1840 46 Maori chiefs followed, over the next seven months, by
500 Maori chiefs from all over New Zealand signed the so-called Treaty of Waitangi.
Although the Treaty seemed to benefit both sides and promised to ensure fairness
in Maori-Pakeha deals, new conflicts inevitably resulted from the need for land
by the ever increasing number of new European settlers.
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Ngatoki matawhaorua, built for the 1940 centenary of the
Treaty of Waitangi.
|
The area around the house of James Busby is preserved as memorial
and museum. Other points of interest are the Maori war canoe (Ngatokimatawhaorua)
and the Maori Meeting House (Whare Runanga). Both were completed in 1940
to mark the centenary of the treaty.
Ngatokimatawhaorua is named after the canoe in which the Maori navigator
Kupe discovered New Zealand. The war canoe was build out of two huge kauri
trees. It has a length of 35 meters and can carry 80 warriors. Ngatokimatawhaorua
used to be launched every year on February 6. But after a 1995 protest
the Prime Minister announced a lower key ceremony to be held in Wellington.
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The Whare Runanga and the grassed area in front (the Marae) form the basis of
Maori culture. Often the meeting house symbolizes a specific tribal ancestor.
The Koruru at the apex of the roof is the ancestor's head, the ridgepole his backbone,
the bargeboards his arms and inside the rafters represent his ribs. Naturally
you take your shoes off before entering the chest of the ancestor.
The inside of Whare Runanga. |
The Whare Runanga in Waitangi contains 28 interior wall slabs, each representing
all groups of Maori tribes in New Zealand. Every Maori tribe in New Zealand is
represented. Each of the wall slabs is exquisitely carved and magnificently detailed.
Intricate carvings inside Whare Runanga. |
One of the 28 wall slabs representing a group of Maori
tribes. |
Behind the Treaty House a road climbs to Mt Bledisloe. From there we enjoy the
views on Hutia Creek before going down again to the creek and its mangrove forest.
To protect the roots and to be able to explore the mangroves without getting wet
feet a boardwalk is part of the walking track. Although it's possible to continue
all the way up to Haruru Falls, we have to go back again because our car waits
for us in Paihia.
View on Hutia Creek and its mangrove forest. |
Back in Paihia we call Otago to complain about the leaking tent and some other
missing stuff (mugs, plates). We're allowed to buy them including a new tent
of a certain type available at The
Warehouse. There isn't one in Paihia, Kerikeri hasn't one either and in
Kaikohe the tents are sold out. We arrive in Kaitaia just after closing time
and decide to go to the campsite
in Waipapakauri Beach. Hopefully it won't rain tonight.
